Hollfeld, with a population of around 5,000, is something of a hidden gem in northern Franconian Switzerland. The small town lies where the Wiesent is still a young river and the Kainach and Kaiserbach meet in tranquil valleys. Anyone strolling through the almost entirely preserved old town, with its towers, gates and narrow alleyways, will soon sense that time passes a little more slowly here than elsewhere.
🏰 Sights
- Gangolf Tower – The town’s landmark towers above the rooftops, visible from afar. The defensive tower, some 28 metres high, was first mentioned in the 14th century; it served for many years as a watchtower and the tower keeper’s residence, and is now Hollfeld’s arts and culture centre, hosting changing exhibitions and performances. The tower is shrouded in the legend of the ‘Irrglöckchen’ (bewitching bell), whose ringing is said to have once guided three sisters who had lost their way in the forest back home.
- Oberes Tor & Bergschustertor – Two preserved city gates dating from around 1300. Passing through the small Bergschustertor leads out to the eastern city wall – and thus to the Kussweg.
- Marienplatz – This central square is situated on the remains of a former castle complex; the Town Hall and the historic Wittauerhaus stand here.
- Katzensteig Terraced Gardens – Just below St Gangolf, Mediterranean-style terraced gardens wind their way up the slope, featuring rare plants and plenty of butterflies.
- Ideenhaus & Blauer Turm – The colourful artists’ quarter in Eiergasse, housed in the building of the former ‘Weiße Taube’ brewery and simply known to many as the ‘Hundertwasserhaus’. The ‘Blue Tower’, the ‘Burning Wall’, the ‘Mona Lisa’ and the ‘Art & Museum’ are all uniquely designed – a cheerful and quirky contrast to the historic old town.
- Churches – The Parish Church of the Assumption of Mary and the Pilgrimage Church of St Salvator are well worth a visit.
💋 Kussweg
Hollfeld’s most romantic spot is just 120 metres long. The Kussweg leads from the Bergschustertor along the outside of the old city wall, past rose hedges and ancient ruins. A residents’ initiative revived this enchanted path in 2015; and today a small pavilion and benches invite visitors to linger. Those who wish can browse a weatherproof bookshelf filled with stories of love or pop a poem they’ve written themselves into the letterbox for love messages. Despite the short distance, people usually end up staying here longer than planned.
📜 History
Its early mention as far back as 1017 shows just how old the settlement is; Hollfeld was granted town status in 1329. Like the entire region, the surrounding area was not spared from war and feuds – the nearby Krögelstein Castle, for example, was blown up in 1523 by mercenaries of the Swabian League using several tonnes of gunpowder. The fact that the old town has nevertheless been preserved largely intact to this day is a major part of its charm.
🥾 Valleys, rocks & excursions
- The Kainach Valley & the Kaiserbach Valley – two tranquil valleys converge at Hollfeld. A popular cycling and walking trail runs through the wide Kainach Valley, whilst the Kaiserbach Valley entices visitors with its cliffs, caves and climbing routes all the way to the cliff-top village of Krögelstein.
- Local castles – Wiesentfels Castle, Freienfels Castle and Kainach Castle are reminders of the area’s fortified past; a lime-tree avenue up to 400 years old, known as the ‘Wichtelallee’, leads to Wiesentfels.
- Ancient sycamore near Fernreuth – A gnarled, veteran tree, estimated to be around 1,000 years old.
- Aufseß & the Brewery Trail – Just a few kilometres to the south lies Aufseß, which attracts visitors with the world’s highest concentration of breweries and the Brewery Trail.
🎭 Culture & Scene
- KINTOPP – This community-run cinema has been operating since 2014 and proves that there’s more going on in this small town than you might think at first glance.
💡 Tip
The Gangolfsturm, the terraced gardens and the Kussweg are just a few steps apart – a short stroll through the old town connects Hollfeld’s three most beautiful spots for a relaxing afternoon.