Without Margravine Wilhelmine of Bayreuth, Frederick the Great’s art-loving favourite sister, this garden would not exist. Between 1744 and 1748, she had one of Europe’s most unusual gardens laid out around the medieval Zwernitz Castle: not a manicured Baroque garden, but the wild rocky landscape of the Franconian Jura itself, only gently enhanced.
‘Nature itself was the architect,’ Wilhelmine wrote to her brother. The name originated in 1746, when a lady-in-waiting is said to have exclaimed upon seeing the view: ‘Ah, c’est sans pareil!’, meaning ‘This is without equal!’. The Margrave subsequently had the place named Sanspareil. In the Franconian dialect, however, there is no trace left of the gentle French pronunciation.
🎭 Ruin Theatre & Oriental-style Building
At the heart of the complex lies the rock theatre, a blend of grotto and ruin: the auditorium lies beneath a massive natural rock arch, whilst the stage and scenery are built from rubble stone. Also preserved are the Oriental Building with its curved roof and the old kitchen building.
📖 A garden like a novel
Wilhelmine interpreted the rocks and grottoes, drawing on a French Bildungsroman, as stages in the life of Telemachus, the son of Odysseus. Names such as the Calypso Grotto or the Mentor Grotto still serve as reminders of this literary theme to this day. Anyone who wanders through the garden with this knowledge is not simply taking a stroll, but reading a book.
🕒 Visiting
The rock garden is freely accessible and is maintained by the Bavarian Palace Administration. The Oriental Pavilion and Zwernitz Castle, right next door, have their own opening hours and admission prices. Sturdy footwear is advisable, as the paths lead over roots and rocks and can be slippery when wet.
🚗 How to get there
The Rock Garden is situated near Wonsees in the district of Kulmbach; it is signposted from the main road through the village. There are car parks right by the entrance, with Zwernitz Castle situated right next to them.