Climbing is a major attraction here – so much so that the guidebook for the routes spans two volumes. The Frankenjura is one of the largest and most popular sport climbing areas in the world: over a thousand crags are hidden away in the forests and valleys of Franconian Switzerland, along with tens of thousands of routes covering every conceivable level of difficulty.
The rock is porous Jura dolomite – the routes are often short, but steep, finger-intensive and challenging. Anyone driving through the valleys on a lovely weekend will see climbers hanging from the walls everywhere.
🔴 Home of redpoint climbing
The Frankenjura is the birthplace of red-point climbing. In 1975, Kurt Albert from Nuremberg began marking routes that he had climbed without falling and without artificial aids, using only natural holds, with a red dot at the base of the wall – this gave rise to the term ‘free climbing’, now used worldwide. His climbing partner Wolfgang Güllich raised the bar even higher: in 1991, he completed ‘Action Directe’ on the Waldkopf in the Krottenseer Forest, the first route graded XI / 9a – which remains one of the world’s most famous climbing routes to this day.
🧗 Rock climbing
Climbing takes place almost exclusively as lead climbing on well-maintained routes, in the clean ‘redpoint’ style. There’s something for everyone, from the enjoyable Grade 4 right up to the most extreme difficulties – from beginners to world-class climbers, everyone can find a route to suit them here. If you’re looking for a guide who knows the area well, it’s best to book one of the local mountain guides or a climbing school.
🪢 Via ferrata
You can reach great heights even without your own climbing rope. The best-known via ferratas are in the Hirschbach Valley in the south of the Frankenjura:
- Höhenglücksteig – One of the most beautiful and challenging via ferratas north of the Alps, divided into three sections. Difficult sections can be bypassed, so beginners and experienced climbers can tackle the route together.
- Norissteig – A varied mix of hiking and climbing, not secured by wire rope throughout; ideal for families, as all climbing sections can be bypassed.
Both routes can easily be combined into a single tour. A via ferrata set and helmet are compulsory.
🌧️ In bad weather
If the rock is wet, there’s no need to stay at home: there are several indoor climbing and bouldering centres in the area (Betzenstein, Forchheim, Bayreuth and Bamberg). The addresses can be found on the ‘Activities’ page under ‘Indoor’.
⚠️ Be considerate on the rock
Many rock faces are habitats for rare animals and plants. During the breeding season of the peregrine falcon and the eagle owl, certain walls are closed – please ensure you observe these closures. The IG Klettern Frankenjura is responsible for maintaining the areas and coordinating with nature conservation organisations.